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3825:attachment]During the past few months, I posted hundreds of photos, from Saint Laurent's ready to wear and couture collections. Did you see the flou? When Saint Laurent learned the secret of the true flou fit from Balenciaga's premiere, Madame Felissa, he called it 'the greatest discovery of [his] life.' It's no secret here at POL : flou is my passion. The indistinct, airy, blurred and three dimensional 'sphere' of cloth around the body. Rather than a heavy mantle, resting on top of it. We are not talking baggy, here. Anything, but. We're talking about a strictly maintained silhouette, fitted so that air is allowed to penetrate between the wearer, and the garment. This is NOT, easy to do. Only three designers, have mastered the technique.

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Vionnet used to 'train her' fabrics, before cutting them. This was done by hanging them against walls, with heavy dressmaker weights attached at integral points of tension. If the garment was to be cut on the straight, Vionnet stretched her fabrics, on the bias. If the garment was to be cut on the bias, Vionnet stretched her materials, on the straight. Afterward, when cutting began, billows and folds appeared out of 'nowhere,' in the fabric, assuring a 'flou' fit for her garments.



Balenciaga is believed not to have used weighting techniques, to create his 'flou' fits. Rather, 'the great one,' who could cut, pin and sew a garment all by himself, fitted his toiles to live mannequines who moved as instructed, so that Balenciaga could observe where his fabrics were going, and from what perspective. An absolutely perfect fit, was called for, from shoulder to waistline. Dozens and dozens of fittings were often required, until Balenciaga's garments 'came alive,' with the desired, airy flou fit he so worshiped. Observe the photo of Cristobal Balenciaga. His suit, CLEARLY shows, flou. It falls alway from his body, ripples and billows, and drapes. Lest one believe that this fit was restricted to soft, airy fabrics, observe Balenciaga's women's suits: Note the airy, standaway fits. Note the movement in the suit, being modeled by the woman in the pillbox, hat. The suit is alive. It is not resting idly, against the body.



Saint Laurent went further still, achieving flou fits with leather, suede, the most fragile chiffons, tulle, and of course, with charmeuse. His greatcoats, made of tightly woven, heavyweight wools and cashmere, all showed, 'flou.'



Once a flou fit has been experienced, there's no turning back. This is in part, why I have not strayed from Giorgio Armani. He is the only men's couturier whose garments, at least to my eye, are often fitted with flou. Not always, but often.



[color="#990000"]I shall post photos, for your pleasure . . . I hope you enjoy them. I hope too, that you can appreciate 'flou,' for what it is: a miracle of tailoring and fit.

Ah, Mme Vionnet! I have feelings about her creations that are similar to Armanis' about St. Laurent's.

Well, it was Vionnet who began the art of 'flou.' She 'took' it, from Greek statues. Her garments are still being studied. Most of them could be worn, today. She was hugely innovative, experimental, and determined. One of the first couturieres, to do unlined coats.

I especially love the center middle suit (fabric looks like boucle but not bulky). And of course the elegant gentleman's suit on the elegant Balenciaga.

I used to subscribe to a sewing magazine that had an article once on Vionnet's work, and even showed the pattern pieces that she'd use. Definitely not simple, but the end result was wonderfully minimal. I love the way her work was designed to be worn by a human body.

Hi frangipani . . . isn't that suit on Balenciaga, the living end?? Now, THAT, is elegance. The fit on that jacket, is incredible. Like sculpture. I've never seen anything like it, really . . . I too, love that nubby suit. It's in motion. There is NOTHING, like a flou fit . . .

rococo, Vionnet had a very, very statistical way to keep skirts from 'falling out,' after being cut on the bias. She used to count the number of threads per square inch, then cut slightly upward, I believe, just a hair or two. Would have to read up on that, again . . . in any case, Vionnet's bias skirts, NEVER, droop to one side. This, after hanging up, for sixty years. She used many twists in her garments, to lend fullness and drape. Take your fingers, and twist at your shoulder. Even the lowliest tee shirt, becomes elegant and expressive.

Ahhh. This is a thread as satisfying as a delicious meal.

Armanis, this may interest you: http://www.englishcut.com/ Though not a Balenciaga by any stretch of the imagination, he gives a glimpse into the world of good tailoring today.

Thanks, Standrews girl . . . good to know that precision tailoring, is still being practiced by those who know how. Balenciaga's clothes, were miracles.

For comparison / contrast, I've posted this shot, of Tom Ford . . . check the fit of his suit, against the fit of Balenciaga's suit. Which, do you prefer? Looks like TF is porking out, some, too. Perhaps Mr. Ford is working on his taste.

Sorry, I can't see the suit because of the goggles.

Isn't TF, a wonder? Yes, you can . . . please, tell me . . . what do you think of that suit? To my eye, the fit is a disaster. Hideous. I detest tight clothes . . . on men, or women.

Au contraire, I hear that he's buffed.

Perhaps . . . he's always been fitness conscious . . . I've seen nude photos of him, in W. Back to the suit. I still think the fit, is lousy.

It appears that TF prefers tightly fitted clothing. For reasons of aesthetics and comfort, I prefer a draped fit.

Click to view attachmentI shall take things, one step further . . . I prefer a 'flou fit.' Both for men, and for women. color photo: this is what Tom Ford, did to Saint Laurent's rive gauche line.

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Tom Ford's version of the YSL flou . . . YSL'S version of the same fit. Ford to me, is the male version of Anna Wintour.

Re: that last picture on the right....do you happen to have a picture of the gold dress in the background. It looks stunning, from what I can see. Gorgeous fabric.

I'll have to check, Clay . . . I have the videotape, to this collection . . . you would not BELIEVE how beautiful these gowns look, slinking down the runway. It's unbelievable. Saint Laurent got a thirteen minute standing ovation, at the end of the show. It sickens me to the heart, that Tom Ford did everything he could, to destroy the flou fit that Saint Laurent worked for THIRTY YEARS, to perfect . . . Ford destroyed YSL'S Rive Gauche jackets . . . he turned that line into a cheap, tawdry carnival.

Wow, what exquisite photos, thank you Armanis. I especially like the Vionnet. She was a true master:-) BTW, what do you think of Fortuny? Isnt it true that noone has been able to figure out the method he used to make those many pleats permanent?

Yes, 'fanatic . . . I like Fortuny . . . Madame Gres made lovely, Grecian draped dresses, too. But my favorites had the 'flou bug': Vionnet, Balenciaga, and Saint Laurent.

Sophia Kokosalaki has been named new creative director of Vionnet.
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/main.jh...06/efkoko06.xml

Pieces will be sold in the Vionnet Studio in Paris (I had no idea there was still one) and via Barneys New York (New York City, Beverly Hills, Dallas, Boston and Chicago locations).

Thanks, Parfum de peau . . . yes, I knew that Vionnet pieces were still being designed. There's a fragrance too, I believe. Not sure if it's available, outside the boutique. All of us have Madeleine Vionnet to thank, for her devotion to flou.

First of all this was a great entertaining and artistic thread. What beautiful garments......

I could not look good in the "tulip" shape of Balenciaga's gowns (I look best in lean lines) but I can appreciate the artistry and the look. Very scultural, as if taken off a modern piece of architecture.

As to Tom Ford.....well, he has this notion that tight clothes put assets on the fore and he is also quoted as saying that he shuns underwear (ewww....for suit pants, wouldn't they.... *gasp* ?) to have an even closer fit.
In my opinion, lean is all very well in clothing and I know I look like I have put 10 pounds if I ever wear something bulky and baggy (so I don't), but man....it looks so cheap if the cloth pushes your thighs or your tummy....too vulgar.




A Grecian for a Grecian-inspired house! I have great hopes!!

I'll bet Tom Ford's suit pants, smell great . . . what a creep. ICK. ICK ICK. I'm hopeful too, helg!!
REMEMBER, TOO: Balenciaga's fit, was NOT baggy. Neither was Saint Laurent's. Nor, was Vionnet's. It was AIRY, and light. There's an enormous difference. I've seen the work a many, many designer, a number of whom have tried with all their knowhow, to imitate flou. It never works. Their clothes look like sacks of meal. Not, light and airy. Just remember, this: AFTER, Oscar de la Renta married his second wife, Annette . . . she continued to wear YvesSaintLaurent, haute couture. Enough said.
Look at how the sleeve of this dress, appears ready to slip off the shoulder. EXQUISITE. Also, note the armhole, on the model's right side. It is hanging loose, from her underarm. UNBELIEVABLE wit.

When I see a suit that fits like Balenciaga's it takes my breath away (in a good way) and I feel a poignant yearning to see this type of clothes on people in real life. One of the reasons I love old movies is because of the fit of a lot of the clothes. I hate tight clothes too, Armanis, and around here the styles are not only tight, but you see cheap fabric, underwear outlines and fat rolls. Even the thinnest people evidence fat rolls and pot bellies in the tight styles. But even a person who is not thin can look graceful and airy in flou! I know we're not supposed to be political here but if a candidate runs in this area I WILL VOTE FOR THE FLOU PARTY!

Click to view attachmentFiveoaks . . . tight clothes, to me . . . are hideous. The only people who look good in them, are professional athletes. Otherwise, once you have experienced a true flou fit . . . NOTHING, can compare. Nothing. Balenciaga worked all his life, to recreated and refine Vionnet's 'flou.' BTW: Yves Saint Laurent called Vionnet's flou, 'perfect.' After Balenciaga's premiere came to YSL, Madame Felisa taught YSL the secret of the true flou, which Saint Laurent proclaimed 'the greatest discovery of my life.' This from a man, who had experienced quite a few discoveries. I'm telling you . . . every time my sister wore YSL, my mouth would fall open, because of the fit. Not only that . . . but when we'd have a hem done on a skirt . . . about the only alteration we needed . . . our seamstress used to tell me that she dreaded doing them, because the instant she cut into the fabric, the ENTIRE silhouette of the skirt, began to disintegrate!! The seamstress had to have another woman, hold down the skirt, while she cut . . . then she'd have to baste it into place, in the same manner, or else the skirt lost its shape, completely!! Can you imagine?



This, on READY TO WEAR!!!



A flou fit looks ALIVE. It's miraculous. On the runway, it is SPECTACULAR!! My YSL runway shows are among my favorite entertainment. They are grand, grand productions of unmatched artistry. Every beat of the music, is in time to whatever garment, is shown. The accessories are all chosen with utmost care. FORMIDABLE!! photo: Spring, 1988. You can see flou, clearly in my sister's pink linen suit. Compare it to my cousin's navy blue dress, which is hanging flat against the body . . . no contest.

Completely off topic, but all your family are good looking! :-)

Click to view attachmentThank you, my dear . . . here's another of my cousins, dressed to the teeth, in Saint Laurent. Note the Chanel purse . . .