You'll remember that the prompt word "gay" most often caused you guys and gals to think of Gaultier LE MALE.
Okay, to be fair, I can see that idea in the flacon, which shows a curvaceous male clothes mannequin--- (dimpled bare glutes right from a Greek KOUROS torso) in blue and white stripes (the French navy?). Yeah, kinda gay-looking maybe, and I believe Monsieur Gaultier is "très out", n'est-ce-pas? Wasn't he Madge's darling for awhile? [Didn't Schiaparelli SHOCKING first appear in such an armless mannequin-shaped flacon in the 1930's? Le plus ça change...]
Even LE MALE's slogan on SEPHORA I misread: I see now it says:
"The fragrance for the man who would be many men at once"
I initially scanned it as:
"The fragrance for the man who would do many men at once"
Anyway, all this said, I think I actually like this one. It's one of the very few modern "clean" aquatic/woodies I think I DO like. It does right what COOL WATER (hommes) got wrong, IMHO.
It opens with a dusty artemisia/bergamot/lavender attack, very subtly touched by cardamom. With the lavender, can this be considered a modern "fougère" ? I dunno... Maybe so. Once the lower notes start to emerge-- a sweaty cumin, cinnamon, cedar, then a subtly sweet musk, tonka, amber, vanilla base, it does indeed read as a "spicy ambered fougère"
The master stroke, I feel, is the way the cedar and cumin meld into what seems to be a masculine "sweat" note... a note which lasts on the skin every bit as long as the "clean" and ambered notes last.
As mod as this fragrance appears to be, it actually reminds me of two VERY old classics: JICKY and VARON DANDY, two oldies I adore. LE MALE is not as citrusy and eminently natural as JICKY is, but the way that "sweat" accord sits slyly atop a "clean" lavender/bergamot accord does remind of JICKY's sly civet note peering out naughtily from the "clean" citruses and natural sandalwood note.
One of my great faves, VARON DANDY is nothing less than a classic 1920's "sweet ambered fougere", and LE MALE almost seems like a mod update on this Art Deco men's masterpiece.
The citrus head in LE MALE smells synthetic, I must admit, and it reminds me much of the bright "clean"--- almost detergent-- citrus quality of Joop! NIGHT FLIGHT.
Really, LE MALE is nice. Modern. Streamlined. Sophisticated, urbane, suave. Though not dark, rugged or base-y, it's not especially "fey" or "gay", either, unless you'd consider, say, JICKY to be faggy.
P.S. LE MALE could easily be unisex, lay-dehz! JICKY fans (lillie, are you listening?) especially will want to try this on for a day.
D.

