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volupte

I like to wear chypres, chypre/florals and green chypres. Are there any new ones on the market that are worth looking for?
amjack
I dont know about 'new', but it's new to me. I recently discovered DSH Chypre Grass. It's supposed to be similar to the long-ago discontinued Jovan Grass Oil (was my sig scent for THE longest time back in the late 70's), but to me, it is just vaguely similar to that. I do notice, however, on MY skin at least, that DSH Chypre Grass is VERY much like the original formulation of MaGriffe.

I have also recently discovered Bond 9 Chinatown. On POL it seems to be one that folks either love or hate...no in-between about it. Chinatown starts out as sweet and fruit-y on my skin, but then it dries down to a soft, spicy chypre. My bf really likes this one on me. ;-)
FiveoaksBouquet
Volupte, as far as I can see, what's new in chypres today are 'new chypres,' the ones without oakmoss, be they new on the market or reformulated. In this sense, one by one all the chypres are becoming 'new.' Some like Aromatics Elixir I find easier to wear in the new formulation, others like Eau du Soir or Miss Dior I find to have lost character. It's a whole new ballgame and I wouldn't rule out smelling the chypres all over again.
Demetrue
My favorite release of the new chypres is 31 Rue de Cambon from Chanel.
IlseM
I like the chypres too , volupte. The most interesting one I've heard of recently is Esprit de Chypre by Auguste. It's supposed to be a true chypre inspired by Coty Chypre.
The notes are: Bergamot, Ylang, Citron, Patchouly, Nutmeg, Vetyver, Oak Moss absolute, Heliotrope, Cistaceae absolute (rock rose).
The price is a bit steep at $245 for 40 ml but I plan on trying it to see if it's the real thing.


Blackchat
This is more of a question than an answer. Is Guerlain's Rose Barbare a chypre? Does it have oakmoss, or is it one of the pink chypres?

sharilstuff
Rue Cambon wears more like an oriental to me. I believe that others smell chypre, but it never feels like one to me.
volupte
Thanks for all the suggestions. It sounds like the DSH Chypre Grass wold be one I'd like to try as I really like the original Ma Griffe. Chanel is easy to find so I'll make a point of trying it. The Esprit de Chypre might be nice to try but a little pricey.

Thanks again biggrin.gif
Sanne
To me 31 Rue Cambon seems more oriental too. It reminds me of Ysatis (but way better). Have you ever tried the Rosine perfumes? Folie the Rose is a chypre, with a soft, soapy drydown and Rose d'Amour also has a chrypre kind of quality (oakmoss in the base), very dry, very elegant. Another chypre is Montale's chypre fruité. And Putain des Palaces (Etat Libre Orange) has a chypre-feel because of the leather. The perfume is very elegant, despite the tasteless name. An old one that hasn't been formulated, as far as I know, is Profumo by Acqua di Parma. Oh, and have you ever tried Balmain de Balmain? It was launched in 1999, if my memory serves me well.
helg
QUOTE (volupte @ Jul 5 2008, 06:30 PM) *
Chanel is easy to find so I'll make a point of trying it.


Surely you know it can be had at Chanel boutiques though (part of Les Exclusifs), don't you? Unless you live close by to one.
I am another one who thinks 31 Rue Cambon , although elegant, doesn't smell especially "chyprish": I'd say it has the spicy accent of a light oriental, more than anything else.

Since you ask about new as opposed to classic chypres I would suggest you try out:

Histoire de Chypre by Molinard for Aedes
Rose d'homme by Parfums de Rosine
Soir de Lune by Sisley
Rose de Nuit by Lutens
Profumo by Aqua di Parma
Unspoken by Roja Dove's own line is supposedly a modern chypre with high quality, haven't tried it myself

One that isn't new, but was recently re-released with good results: Givenchy III
And a forgotten classic chyprish floral, just for the heck of it: Chant d'Aromes by Guerlain

Super bargain which really smells like an old traditional chypre (well, it used to, last time I sampled it at least): Japanese Musk oil by The Body Shop: jasmine, muguet (lily of the valley), musk, orris, cedarwood and moss.

Also Ava Luxe makes a Moss de Chine which is intensely oakmoss-like.
Malena
to me 31 rue cambon is all about chypre - i love it! i even got compliments from the SA at frédéric malle when i visted their boutique smile.gif it´s wodnerful, very sophisticated & my favourite release from les exclusifs along with coromandel.

helg has made great suggestions, i completely agree with her!

molinard histoire d´un chypre smells a bit like coty´s chypre while roja dove´s unspoken reminds me a teensy bit of mitsouko (in feeling!), it smells juicy as if it contained peach or apricots, though roja dove explained to me (i called at the boutique to order & it happened that he answered the phone) that there are no fruits in it, but that the juicy smell comes from jasmine.

sisley soir de lune as well as SL rose de nuit are both great, especially SL´s rose might also please people that normally don´t like rose fragrances.
auguste esprit de chypre is lovely, but doesn´t remind me of a chypre at all - i always smell myrrhe in this one!

esteban also released two chypre scents:
classic chypre (nice, but a bit too sharp to my nose) as well as modern chypre (this one´s a pink chypre for sure, very fruity with raspberries).
volupte

My nearest Chanel counter is in Nashville, I'll make a point of trying 31 Rue Cambon. Sisley's fragrances I really love but they fade much too quickly on my skin.

Chant d'Aromes is a great fragrance for me, I have a few drops left. Givenchy 111 is another I tried and found rather lovely. Esteban is new to me. Where will I find it?

FiveOaks, My Clinique AE is about 14 months old. How can I tell if this is the new or old formula without the box to check the ingredients?


Thanks everyone for your help.
Malena
regarding esteban i googled & found these U.S. sales points on their website:

http://www.esteban.fr/nous_trouver_fiche2.htm?pays=USA

lillie
Seconding helg's suggestions of:

Profumo by Acqua di Parma
and
Ava Luxe Moss (Mousse de Chine)

Both are on top of my top ten list at the moment.
As i am currently obsessed with finding "real" smelling soft chypres with a heavy oakmoss accent (which i find makes them soft and spicy in a nearly oriental way) i have come across the two and fallen heavily for them. Both are completely TRUE chypres but miss that sharp and pungent opening that many old hypres have and that often is less inviting for me.

The modern Miss Dior, often dismissed here is also one of my favourites. It's soapier and more powdery than the older stuff but the effect is a refreshing and very wearable one as the amber, patchouli and mosses ground it in the base.
Of course the vintage perfume is even better! It shares HG position along with the heavenly Mitsouko in my personal collection.

It is not a "real chypre" per se (no mosses here, no labdanum or galbanum) but a nice patchouli-rose with an ambery base, also not very liked here but i would like to suggest it though: Midnight Poison by Dior.

nubka
As for the DSH Chypre Grass, how is the staying power? Does it hang in there, or just wimp out?
amjack
QUOTE (nubka @ Jul 6 2008, 01:22 PM) *
As for the DSH Chypre Grass, how is the staying power? Does it hang in there, or just wimp out?

Well even though what I have is the water-based formulation, I applied it at 6:30 a.m. and was still getting whiffs of it as late as 2 p.m. That's good lasting power if you ask me!
FiveoaksBouquet
QUOTE (volupte @ Jul 6 2008, 08:12 AM) *
FiveOaks, My Clinique AE is about 14 months old. How can I tell if this is the new or old formula without the box to check the ingredients?

Volupte, if you don't have the box to guide you, the only thing I can think of is to trust your own nose and test yours on one arm and try one from a store on the other. Either way, I think they're both good!
chanel22
What's new? Well, reformulations aside, I don't agree with calling the new fragrances like narciso rodrigez or Lovely, chypres. Chypres my foot! Musk is more like it, but I've seen these listed as "new chypres" numerous times. It's equivalent to calling a good horse a 'Thoroughbred'. Sorry, Thoroughbred is a breed, not an adjective. Sorry, two pet peeves of mine. Anyway, there are still some true chypres coming through the cracks that use bergamot, mossy notes and woods. The most recent discovery for me was yesterday's find at Crabtree & Evelyn. Sarawak is listed as a chypre by Michael Edwards and he compares it to La Perla, Femme, and Cabochard. I wouldn't have used Femme as a comparison, but a chypre nontheless. Sarawak is on sale right now, but don't delay, check the Crabtree&Evelyn website soon.
VelvetSky
Have to agree. For me, chypre means oakmoss and bergamot somewhere in the formula. I think they need to find a new word for these other faux-chypres. (I really like and wear a lot of them btw.)

QUOTE (chanel22 @ Jul 7 2008, 11:33 PM) *
What's new? Well, reformulations aside, I don't agree with calling the new fragrances like narciso rodrigez or Lovely, chypres. Chypres my foot! Musk is more like it, but I've seen these listed as "new chypres" numerous times. It's equivalent to calling a good horse a 'Thoroughbred'. Sorry, Thoroughbred is a breed, not an adjective. Sorry, two pet peeves of mine. Anyway, there are still some true chypres coming through the cracks that use bergamot, mossy notes and woods. The most recent discovery for me was yesterday's find at Crabtree & Evelyn. Sarawak is listed as a chypre by Michael Edwards and he compares it to La Perla, Femme, and Cabochard. I wouldn't have used Femme as a comparison, but a chypre nontheless. Sarawak is on sale right now, but don't delay, check the Crabtree&Evelyn website soon.

sharilstuff
I tend to agree with these "new chypre" or "pink chypre" sentiments. I also like some of them and I do see where they are going for that contrast, but it's definitely not chypre. When I want chypre, I want the distinct smell of moss in the mix. NR, for example, has something pungent giving it that contrast to the honey musk sweetness but it's not really a mossy smell - it's sharper and almost peppery. It's also not...um...natural smelling. (not saying natural ingredients as opposed to synthetics but more the way it strikes me) The smell of real mosses is a huge part of my childhood, having grown up spending alot of my free time in the woods, and a scent either hits the mark on that smell for me or it doesn't - many don't.

I've decided to explore some older oddball chypre scents lately in the hopes of adding to my chypre wardrobe, which is miniscule. I've found an inexpensive bottle of Deci Dela in the older concentree formula. We'll see...
volupte
I don't think I am going to enjoy some of these "new" chypres, the old ones are the true chypres. LIke Sharil, I want the real mossy smell. Some of these fragrances shouldn't (IMO) even have the name chypre connected with them.
I'm curious about Profumo by Aqua di Parma, but wouldn't buy it unsniffed. A POL friend is sending me a sample of DSH Chypre Grass.

The lovely La Perla was one Fragrance I bought unsniffed and have never regretted it.
Demetrue
I love La Perla!
sharilstuff
I don't know La Perla...closest relative? Rosey chypre, animalic...green....which type?
Blackchat
La Perla has been refered to often here; I just might have to try it rolleyes.gif

Would Le Parfum de Therese be considered a chypre? It's an early 1960's composition but newly released to the public within this decade. It vaguely reminds me of Cristalle edp and Diorella.

Sous le Vent is also a new re-release of an older fragrance. It drys down very much like a chypre on my skin...Mitsouko with a hint of lavender and citrus in the opening.

I'm also curious to know as I stated before if Rose Barbare actually does contain oakmoss? huh.gif
sharilstuff
I would think that Parfum de Therese borrows so heavily from his other creations, namely Diorella and Femme, that it would have to fall into the same category, no? I like that one, too.
Blackchat
QUOTE (sharilstuff @ Jul 9 2008, 09:06 PM) *
I would think that Parfum de Therese borrows so heavily from his other creations, namely Diorella and Femme, that it would have to fall into the same category, no? I like that one, too.



Yes, That's what I have thought, but I guess I just wanted confirmation. Thanks! I'm glad PDT has a fan here.
Demetrue
QUOTE (sharilstuff @ Jul 9 2008, 11:08 AM) *
I don't know La Perla...closest relative? Rosey chypre, animalic...green....which type?



I get a very refined cedar fragrance - dry and elegant, though I think there is a touch of warm vanilla to undercut the otherwise dry, woodsy, mossy scent.
Demetrue
31 Rue de Cambon reminds me of a more wearable Parfum de Therese, which reminds me a bit of Miss Dior (original) and Dioressence.
Sanne
I remember another good chypre: Victorian Posy from Penhaligon's. Very classic. It's a fresh version of Miss Balmain, I would say.
I think Le Parfum de Thérèse has something chypre-ish too. Also try Frederic Malle's Angéliques sous la pluie. I would call that a pink chypre, but it has a nice, peppery drydown.
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