sharilstuff
Jul 23 2008, 09:26 AM
Seems to be alot of talk of incense lately. What, with the newest Serge offering. I have to be honest: incense scents have never really found a place in my heart. I like the idea. I try them. But they always feel, well, like incense - they feel aloof and as though they belong in the environment and not on my person.
Indulge me with one or two favorite incense scents and why it is that you like it. Does this scent meld with your skin...is it the imagery that you love...does it hold fond memories or sacred/meditative connotations for you? Share with me what compels you to own this particular incense scent, please.
éprise de flacons
Jul 23 2008, 10:09 AM
Interesting question! I realized recently that incense figures far more prominently in my collection than I would have thought, so this will be a good reflection, albeit difficult as I'm wearing Angélique Encens but won't be talking about it.
NB Don't know most incense scents, Norma K, CdG, Messe de Minuit, but have 'seeking them out' still on a back burner here so the incense can smoke a little bit but not smoke me out.
Favorite is Lorenzo Villoresi Incensi. I like its density and the space in it. I like how cool it is. At first greens and spices seem to go on with. Herbal-medicinal touch. A bitter-sweet figure 8 which is very interesting. The incense is resinous and flowing, not so powdery. It doesn't remind me of incense burning per se. It doesn't totally meld with the skin, but fellow travels well. It is like wearing an aura-shape (to not say shroud) you can project and that can project you. I apologize for not being 100% sure whose avatar this is - it reminds me of the avatar of the woman in black with the formidable posture and very cinched waist. It's like bustling oneself along. LVI is like the mentor who knows and draws out the good things in you even if sometimes it feels like cutting one's own line.
Other favorites are Etro Shaal Nur, because the way all its disparate facets both meld and dart in and out is very sunny and reassuring, an optimistic Renaissance humanist. The incense there is to me not at all like smoke or burning; it's like a base note made of the powdered resins, nestled in the middle of the other notes like a filling. Like it's in the middle of the citrus, making it rise like an eggy thing careening, heating it.
Bond AW Silver Factory reminds me the most of incense burning, the smell of the room and the heated part of the incense just about to go up as opposed to the smoke itself, but more like a handful of powdered resins (staying stable, not acting super powdery) being dredged through a veil of cedar. The cedar takes on their texture. Like the finest wood chips and sawdust, but lying inert, and soft. This one is not entirely a favorite because sometimes its futurist amber metal turns nasty, imperious, back-biting, and its mostly brilliant head spins and it has a partly mad scientist headache.
sharilstuff
Jul 23 2008, 10:14 AM
Thank you. I have a little decant of Incensi that I've nursed along for many, many moons. I like it as well. Mostly the galbanum aspect.
Colonia
Jul 23 2008, 10:22 AM
I've rarely met an incense scent I didn't like and I own far too many of them. In answer to your question, I can't tell you why, specifically, I feel the way I do, I just do.
My two favorite incensey fragrances that I only wear at home or to go out to howl at the moon are Norma Kamali's Incense, and Messe de Minuit. My current favorite "wearable" incense fragrance is Encens et Lavande, which I think I bought from you, Sharil. It is also why I'm looking forward to Serge Noire.
sharilstuff
Jul 23 2008, 10:25 AM
That's probably right. I had a bit in a bell jar. It was lovely, but again...I felt somewhat like I was wearing room spray - albeit exqusite room spray. LOL This may be something that won't change for me, but I thought I'd take a sweep and see what others wear. There are quite a few that I haven't tried, so it might be a matter of finding the right one.
VelvetSky
Jul 23 2008, 11:13 AM
For me it's Avignon. Why? Because it gives me naughty fantasies. That's all I'm sayin'.
sharilstuff
Jul 23 2008, 11:23 AM
You need say nothing more. One of the best reasons I can think of. LOL
cazaubon
Jul 23 2008, 11:23 AM
I adore incense scents. I'm guessing the smells of incense appeal to me so much because they feel spiritual and eternal in some way - taps into that deep animal brain that bypasses words and goes straight to feelings.
sharilstuff
Jul 23 2008, 11:26 AM
Can you choose a favorite, or top two?
cazaubon
Jul 23 2008, 12:39 PM
Oh sure - I really love Passage d'Enfer and Heeley Cardinal, although the entire CdG Incense series is very enjoyable too, plus Black Tourmaline from the Olivier Durbano line. Oh, and Andy Tauer's Incense Extreme. All excellent scents.
Teddius
Jul 23 2008, 12:56 PM
Hey, Sharil! I really like L'Artisan's Timbuktu. It has a light airy quality that is truly stunning. I wear a very small spritz of it as an after-shower fragrance at night, and it gives the bed a warm lived-in sense that's hard to describe.
If you are looking for something a bit more....aggressive.... I would recommend Monk by Michael Storer. To me, it smells just like the inside of an old musty European church where they've been burning incense for 750 years. It is dark, a little dank, with a strong animalic and incense overtone. I can't wear it anywhere, but it is interesting to smell, none the less.
Teddius
Fleurry
Jul 23 2008, 01:02 PM
I like Passage d'Enfer and Kyoto.
I can't wear Kyoto though, because it smells just like my father used to. He died when I was 8 years old.
carmencanada
Jul 23 2008, 01:43 PM
I must say that Serge Noire has leapt to the top of the list, because despite its austerity it has a deep sensuousness, with its round, vanilla-cinnamon benzoin and warm powdery carnation-clove note. Encens et Lavande was always a little too cold for me -- shall I admit that, blasphemously, I used to sprinkled my clothes with it when I ironed them?
I love CdG Avignon because it reminds me of the church incense burned during processions in the Holy Week in Seville, but it's the signature scent of a very striking woman I know and it just summons her to a degree that makes it unwearable for me.
I am now intrigued by Passage d'Enfer and will be testing it soon.
Fleurry, that fragrant memory of your father must be heartbreakingly bittersweet... I think Cazaubon is right, incense does trigger primal, deep, almost mystical feelings in us...
Fleurry
Jul 23 2008, 01:56 PM
QUOTE (carmencanada @ Jul 23 2008, 01:43 PM)

I must say that Serge Noire has leapt to the top of the list, because despite its austerity it has a deep sensuousness, with its round, vanilla-cinnamon benzoin and warm powdery carnation-clove note. Encens et Lavande was always a little too cold for me -- shall I admit that, blasphemously, I used to sprinkled my clothes with it when I ironed them?
I love CdG Avignon because it reminds me of the church incense burned during processions in the Holy Week in Seville, but it's the signature scent of a very striking woman I know and it just summons her to a degree that makes it unwearable for me.
I am now intrigued by Passage d'Enfer and will be testing it soon.
Fleurry, that fragrant memory of your father must be heartbreakingly bittersweet... I think Cazaubon is right, incense does trigger primal, deep, almost mystical feelings in us...
I think that's it exactly- well said.
sharilstuff
Jul 23 2008, 01:58 PM
Loving the responses. (covers ears) I refuse to listen to you on the new Serge. He's let me down in the past and I'm over him....I've healed. I refuse to give in. LOL
Someone compare Cardinal to Avignon for me, if you can. I know Avignon. Nathan compares Cardinal and Kyoto on his blog, but strangely no mention of coffee in Kyoto. That was the aspect that always kept me away from it.
C'est Nichist
Jul 23 2008, 02:16 PM
Encens et Lavand--too ashy for me, too much lavender. To me, it sort of smells like (gasp) potpouri.
For me, it's gotta be Bond No. 9 Silver Factory. The perfect incense scent for me because it maintains a lightness that is almost incredible. And shockingly, I like the little bit of lavender at the top. Great great great great.
sharilstuff
Jul 23 2008, 02:19 PM
QUOTE (C'est Nichist @ Jul 23 2008, 11:16 AM)

Encens et Lavand--too ashy for me, too much lavender. To me, it sort of smells like (gasp) potpouri.
Yes, totally agree. I found it very transportive and beautiful, but it never seemed like it should be "on" me.
Silver Factory had such promise, but something in the drydown bugged me horribly. Couldn't do it.
GalileosDaughter
Jul 23 2008, 02:44 PM
My favorite is Tauer Incense rosé. I think because to me it is bubbly and complex. I like Kyoto a lot too, although at the opposite end of the spectrum, it seems very spare and Zen to me. I'm looking forward to the new Lutens.
Twitchly
Jul 23 2008, 03:06 PM
I don't know that I've ever sniffed an incense perfume. If I have, I didn't recognize it as such.
There are many different types of incense that each smell quite different from each other. I wonder what unifies this class of perfumery?
cazaubon
Jul 23 2008, 03:25 PM
Hm, I find Avignon to be a bit more dark than Cardinal - the Cardinal feels somehow lighter, maybe more balsam? They are quite close though.
To answer Twitchly's question, I believe incense scents are basically resins and/or wood notes.
rococo
Jul 23 2008, 03:39 PM
I adore L'Artisan's Spiritual Mood fragrance from the Sautes d'Humeur Coffret. If this were available on it's own, I'd probably buy a gallon of the stuff, just on principle.
This one seems to wear well, instead of just sitting on my skin.
As you say, much as I love incense, a lot of the 'incense fragrances' don't wear well as a personal scent.
VelvetSky
Jul 23 2008, 04:05 PM
Precisely.
QUOTE (cazaubon @ Jul 23 2008, 03:25 PM)

Hm, I find Avignon to be a bit more dark than Cardinal - the Cardinal feels somehow lighter, maybe more balsam? They are quite close though.
jtcInBoston
Jul 23 2008, 06:22 PM
I am very fond of incense scents as well, and have been on a whirlwind incense tour. I like (in no particular order):
1. The CdG Incense series. Zagorsk is currently my favourite, followed by Avignon, Kyoto, Ouarzazate, and Jaisalmer. Each of them has a different character, but I really appreciate the cold pine forest quality of Zagorsk.
2. LLP Anarchy. Just received a sample in a swap from an incense buddy. This is apparently a dupe of Donna Karan Chaos, and it is a nice, warm, somewhat spicy incense.
3. Cinq Mondes Rituel de Java, Indonesia. Woody, resinous, with eucalyptus and cinnamon, has an incense feel to my nose (but others might consider this more "woody" than "incense")
4. Costes room spray -- has more of an incense feel than Costes EdT.
5. L'Artisan Passage D'Enfer. A light, lily-inflected incense. Very wearable.
6. L'Artisan Timbuktu. I recently had a discussion elsewhere about whether this should be considered "incense" or "woody." It definitely has a lot besides incense going on, but I think it's great.
7. L'Artisan Dzongkha. Evokes cold, white smoke for me. I like it.
8. Tauer L'Air du Desert Marocaine - a bit to vanillic for me in the drydown, but very impressive and evocative nonetheless.
9. Incense Extrême and Incense Rosé -- very strong frankincense and very strong frankincense + rose. I'm still trying to make friends with these.
10. Amouage Jubilation XXV -- also lots of frankincense, but with all sorts of other exuberant floral and jammy/fruity notes thrown in.
11. biehl parfumkunstwerke mb03 -- lovely, clean incense by Mark Buxton.
ElizabethN
Jul 23 2008, 06:24 PM
Although I haven't yet tried many of the classic incenses, so far, I love Passage d'Enfer best for a light incense. In the heavier category, Tauer Incense Rosé and Messe de Minuit.
Elodie
Jul 23 2008, 06:46 PM
I love CdG Kyoto, Caron Parfum Sacre and Nuit de Noel.
sharilstuff
Jul 23 2008, 07:58 PM
Aha! I have Anarchy and Parfum Sacre, and I've never thought of them as incense scents. So I do wear them, but more of a spicy melange with incense than a purist type.
Catherine Fraser
Jul 23 2008, 08:09 PM
love Norma Kamali Incense.
NathanB
Jul 23 2008, 10:36 PM
There are two incense frags I like very much: Montale Greyland and Armani Prive Bois d'Encens
Greyland is dry wood (with teak mellowing out the sharpness in the cedar), musky frankincense, some waxy rose. It has a Greek Orthodox character.
Bois d'Encens was a complete surprise to me. I did not expect it to be so simple and effortless. The cedar and smoke is present from beginning to end, with a no-nonsense mossy, earthen tone that emerges after the dusty woods and peppery spices have taken their time to stretch out and relax.
Re: coffee in Kyoto. The amount of coffee in the mix was negligible, imo. Not enough to make it worth commenting on. Of course, I don't mind coffee as a part of the picture (I like Bond No. 9 New Harlem and Angel Men Pure Coffee), and I usually have a pot brewing throughout the day. Sharil seems to harbor an aversion to both foodie ingredients and gourmands in general, so the coffee in Kyoto was probably much more noticeable to her nose . . .
sharilstuff
Jul 24 2008, 09:40 AM
Oh, I haven't tried Kyoto. I meant to say that coffee listed in the notes gives me pause. It just usually ends up bothering me.
I'll have to try Greyland and Bois d'Encens.
arwenelf
Jul 25 2008, 01:11 AM
I love incense perfumes
My favorite is CdG Avignon, but I don't wear it often. Usually I spray a little bit before going to sleep.
Passage d'Enfer is very fresh to me and wearable, just beautiful.
I bought Anick Goutal's Encense Flamboyant unsniffed and was not disappointed. Very smokey, but soft.
I have a sample of Heeley's Cardinal and it is very good, and I agree, it is close to Avignon
Incense Rose seems a bit strong. I have a sample and just a drop is enough, I can't imagine spraying it.
Bois d'Encense is beautiful, but oh so expensive!
Nu is white flowers with incense, very strong but enjoyable and I bough a full bottle for a good price.
Chanel #22 is great, again flowers and incense. Sometimes I smell more incense than others, may be the weather
Silver Factory is delicious. I may get a decant.
I tried Costes and liked it very much, but it was not too incensy
I really did not like the Biehl, I have the sample somewhere, I need to try it again.
Perfume Sacre did not agree with me, it is all powder and vanilla on my skin.
I am looking forward to Serge Noire
cazaubon
Jul 25 2008, 12:14 PM
Smacking forehead - how could I have forgotten the new AG Encens Flamboyant? That is a great incense scent. I also love love love Profumum's Olibanum - it is a very dry, sophisticated incense scent.
Demetrue
Jul 25 2008, 04:32 PM
I have not had a chance to test any of the newer incense laden scents, but the original Opium is always a winner on my skin - I get frankincense, clove, carnation. Mmmmm. I wish Black Cashmere were more complete - I get incense but not much else to anchor it. I think that Black Cashmere consists of half the notes of DK Chaos - I will have to spring for a bottle of LLP Duality in the near future.
Dain
Jul 27 2008, 06:07 PM
Not a fan of incense, though I wish I could carry it off. But I do love Caron Parfum Sacre.
Accolon
Jul 28 2008, 04:25 AM
Passage d'Enfer: Discreet, but tenacious. A crystal clear incense with a fresh floralcy and light musks. I get complimented a lot when I wear this. Very easy to wear.
Messe de Minuit: Difficult. Moldy amber. A bit of sour patchouli. A box of old books having been stored in the basement for thirty years. I happen to love it.
Avignon: Smoky. Like actual burning frankincence. Has a lovely labdanum note. Dry, woody quality.
Olfacta
Jul 28 2008, 07:36 AM
[font="Georgia"][/font]CDG Kyoto, because I lived in Japan for awhile as a child, and this scent reminds me of the Shinto shrine in our small town. As soon as the perfume budget gets some breathing room, I plan to buy a FB, to use for meditation.
CDG Zogorsk, because it's pineyness reminds me of winter, and right now it's the Dog Days here in the sweaty South.
I have the two Tauers, Incense Rose and Incense Extreme, but haven't lived with them long enough to really evaluate them. Hope to get to that soon, and write some blog stuff about it.
rasputin
Jul 28 2008, 09:39 AM
Traditionalist here:
BAL À VERSAILLES. A pyramid over minimalism any day.

It's not myrrh, frank or koh-- it's sweet/urinaceous hindu agarbathies.
nubka
Jul 28 2008, 06:26 PM
Actually, waaaay back in the 70's, Yardley had a nice little incense fragrance on the market called Your the Fire
. Does anyone else remember it? It shows up on eBay from time to time, but I always get outbid...
stephanie55
Jul 31 2008, 08:00 PM
Josef Statkus. My husband gave me a bottle for my birthday, and it is to die for.
éprise de flacons
Aug 1 2008, 01:48 PM
QUOTE (NathanB @ Jul 23 2008, 10:36 PM)

Bois d'Encens was a complete surprise to me. I did not expect it to be so simple and effortless. The cedar and smoke is present from beginning to end, with a no-nonsense mossy, earthen tone that emerges after the dusty woods and peppery spices have taken their time to stretch out and relax.
Tested Bois d'Encens today and immediately fell for it on the card, then initially on skin, particularly swooning at the strength and trueness of the smoke, part of the construction reminding me of the other Armani Privé I've sampled, Ambre Soie. Unfortunately, my chemistry plays a nasty trick with this one and Black Cashmere; the very deep and dark components have a soda pop (cola, root beer) underbelly. Thank you for mentioning Bois d'Encens, NathanB. How I wish I could wear these!
Were only Dyptique Essence of John Galliano not a room spray! I believe I've read that some here do use it as personal fragrance and will be searching to see if right on skin or on clothes. Gobsmacked. The deep and dark that had thus far eluded me. Did test Dzongha (very inscrutable, calm, dry and not sweet in a felicitous texture that doesn't often go with something that dry, needs to be revisited) and Passage d'enfer (requires more subtle attention than I was able to give it in my albeit moderate, ie. I know what I sprayed where, frenzy). Samples of CdG line and Messe de Minuit necessary.
cleopatra*s_boudoir
Aug 22 2008, 03:58 AM
I find that Black Cashmere is intensely incense-y, it is great for fall & winter.
It reminds me of some fantasy...laying on a divan in voluminous and diaphaneous garment,daydreaming of love lost, tinkling of jewels on my arms and ankles, the lingering smell of deep dark incense wafting up to the elaborately carved rafters, the years and years of ambergris and kyphi burning enrobes the seraglio with its enchanting fragrance.
I can wear this fragrance very well and get compliments when I wear it, its seductive, smoky and enthralling!!!People always ask what I am wearing.
I also find that the new Estee Lauder fragrance, Sensuous is very incense-y and smoky, like a warm fire burning throughout the evening, with spiced hot toddy and the whispers of the woods outside.