I did lots of sniffing and some buying in Yemen. I bought mostly from al Rehab (Saudi, a regional powerhouse, big fancy shops in Jeddah, Aden and Sana'a) and al Sedae (smaller Yemeni company). I found that although the Arabian attars are oil based they are quite multidimensional and do develop over time, telling a complete story from the opening to drydown. I believe al Rehab has a website, and al Sedae's business card has a website but I couldn't find any such thing.
My favorite fragrance that I bought was a house concoction that has no name. It is the creation of a small shop called Abu Younis. Many shops create their own mixes (mokhalat means mixture, you'll see that word in a lot of perfume names) that are exclusive to them.
I think it's just a matter of time before some of the bigger houses (al Rehab http://www.al-rehab.com/old_site/EnProfile.php, Ajmal, al Haramain http://www.haramainperfumes.net/default.asp) open shops outside of the Arab world, given the increasing interest in perfume in general and the increasing interest in Arab culture in the west.
Here's a picture of a small portion of the wall space in Al Sedae's shop on Salam Street in Sana'a, just down from Bab al Yemen.

Thank you for the fabulous report spadefoot. The shop on the photo looks like an Aladdin's cave.

Wow! Very cool picture and interesting report--thanks!

I just cannot stand the thought that there are lovely scents in this world that I may never sniff......

Absolutely fabulous! Thanks for sharing your travels and the photo. I had some similar experiences when I was in Egypt. The exotic aromas in the mid-east make up some of my most vivid memories I think.

Holy moley, what a photo! Thanks for the report from Yemen, Spadefoot. I've seen some Middle-Eastern perfume companies appearing on the Internet and it would be so neat to actually see some b&m boutiques in North America!

It sounds lovely! And I loved the picture. What were you doing in Yemen besides smelling perfumes? Which did you buy for yourself and why?

Karin,
I was mostly being a curious person. Walking around, smelling and listening and looking and asking questions. I was also painting (my livliehood) and studying Arabic (an abiding interest).
I did a blog while I was there: www.artistinyemen.blogspot.com, with a little more (but not that much) detail.

I bought 10 attars, because I liked them, all of them from Yemeni and Saudi companies, not high end. While I was there, my all senses were so overwhelmed I couldn't really analyze the fragrances, but I'm looking forward to some quiet time with them now that I'm home, and I'm hoping to send some out for review on this board for other noses to report on.

PS
Two of my favorite pictures I took, not directly related to perfume, but observations on veiling. Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment

What's the story with the covered car, Spadefoot?

Spadefoot, I LOVE the veiling photos! they make my heart smile.

You can buy covers for cars that protect from the elements (likely sand there?)

OTOH, it makes for a great juxtaposition.

Oh, thanks for the post, the oils sound wonderfull and exotic. What an apportunity to travel there, discovery is all!

I have a question for you. DH and I just moved from So Ca to Arizona, Phoenix area. Do you find fragrance different in drier climes? I was hoping nothing would change about my favorites reaction on skin. So far, status quo.

Yemeni is where Myrrh is harvested, it would be wonderfull if some one could import to USA and Europe, make new and unusual perfumes more readily available to all the fans here on POL.